Peace Lily
Spathiphyllum wallisii
Also: Spathiphyllum, White Sails, Closet Plant
The peace lily is a lush, dark-leaved plant that produces elegant white spathes (often mistaken for flowers) even in low-light conditions. It is one of the best houseplants for beginners because it clearly communicates when it needs water by dramatically drooping. Peace lilies also rank among NASA's top air-purifying plants, filtering benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene.
By PlantFix Editorial Team · Sources: University Extension Programs, USDA
Care Summary
LightLow to medium indirect light. Peace lilies are true low-light champions and bloom even in north-facing windows. Too much light causes bleached or scorched leaves, while very low light reduces flowering.
WaterKeep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Peace lilies are dramatic wilters — they droop visibly when thirsty and perk back up within hours of watering.
HumidityPrefers 50%+ humidity. Brown leaf tips are the classic symptom of dry air. Benefits greatly from a humidifier, pebble tray, or grouping with other plants.
Temperature65-80°F (18-27°C). Very sensitive to cold — avoid placement near drafty windows, exterior doors, or air conditioning vents.
SoilRich, well-draining potting mix with peat moss or coco coir to retain some moisture. Add perlite for drainage. Peace lilies like moist — not wet — conditions.
ToxicityToxic to cats, dogs, and humans. Contains calcium oxalate crystals causing mouth pain, swelling, and difficulty swallowing if ingested.
Tips
- – If your peace lily droops dramatically, water it thoroughly — it will perk back up within a few hours.
- – Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth to keep them glossy and free of dust.
- – Remove spent flower stalks by cutting them at the base to encourage new blooms.
- – Peace lilies prefer to be slightly root-bound, so only repot when roots circle the bottom of the pot.
Common Problems
Brown leaf tips
Causes
- – Low humidity — peace lilies are tropical plants that suffer in dry indoor air
- – Fluoride and chlorine in tap water, to which peace lilies are especially sensitive
- – Over-fertilizing, which burns the leaf margins
Solutions
- – Run a humidifier nearby or place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water
- – Switch to filtered, distilled, or rainwater — or let tap water sit out overnight to off-gas chlorine
- – Fertilize at half-strength only during spring and summer, and flush the soil with plain water monthly
Failure to bloom
Causes
- – Insufficient light — while peace lilies tolerate low light, they need medium indirect light to produce flowers
- – Plant is too young — peace lilies typically bloom once they are mature, around 1-2 years
- – Lack of fertilizer during the growing season
Solutions
- – Move to a brighter location with consistent indirect light for several hours daily
- – Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10) monthly during spring and summer
- – A brief exposure to slightly cooler nighttime temperatures (55-60°F) can sometimes trigger blooming
Yellowing leaves throughout the plant
Causes
- – Overwatering leading to oxygen-starved roots
- – Root rot from chronically wet soil or a pot sitting in a saucer of water
- – Old age — peace lilies naturally shed their oldest leaves
Solutions
- – Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings — the top inch should feel dry before watering again
- – Ensure the pot has drainage holes and empty the saucer 30 minutes after watering
- – Remove individual yellow leaves at the base to redirect energy to healthy growth
Fungus gnats around the soil
Causes
- – Consistently moist topsoil creates ideal breeding conditions for gnat larvae
- – Organic matter in the soil decomposing in warm, damp conditions
- – Overwatering keeping the soil surface perpetually wet
Solutions
- – Let the top inch of soil dry between waterings — gnat larvae need constant moisture to survive
- – Apply a 1/2-inch layer of sand or diatomaceous earth on the soil surface to prevent adult gnats from laying eggs
- – Use yellow sticky traps near the plant to catch adult gnats and break the breeding cycle
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