Monstera
Monstera deliciosa
Also: Swiss Cheese Plant, Split-Leaf Philodendron, Mexican Breadfruit
Monstera deliciosa is prized for its dramatic, perforated leaves that can grow over two feet wide in ideal conditions. As a climbing tropical plant, it thrives with a moss pole or trellis for support. Mature plants can produce new leaves monthly during the growing season, each one larger and more fenestrated than the last.
By PlantFix Editorial Team · Sources: University Extension Programs, USDA
Care Summary
LightBright indirect light. Monstera develops its iconic fenestrations (leaf holes) faster in bright light. Tolerates medium light but growth slows significantly. Direct sun causes leaf burn.
WaterWater when the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry. Monstera prefers consistent moisture but not soggy soil. Water less frequently in fall and winter when growth slows.
HumidityPrefers 50-70% humidity. Benefits noticeably from a humidifier, especially in winter. Brown leaf edges are a telltale sign of insufficient humidity.
Temperature65-85°F (18-29°C). Growth stalls below 60°F. Keep away from cold drafts and heating vents.
SoilChunky, well-draining aroid mix: 1 part potting soil, 1 part orchid bark, 1 part perlite. Good aeration is key to preventing root rot in the thick root system.
ToxicityToxic to cats and dogs. Contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals causing mouth and GI irritation if chewed or ingested.
Tips
- – Give your Monstera a moss pole to climb — it triggers larger leaves with more fenestrations.
- – Clean the large leaves monthly with a damp cloth to maximize light absorption.
- – Aerial roots can be directed into the soil or moss pole — never cut them off as they help the plant absorb moisture.
Common Problems
Yellowing lower leaves
Causes
- – Overwatering — Monstera's thick roots are highly prone to rot in soggy soil
- – Poor drainage from compacted soil or a pot without drainage holes
- – Natural reabsorption of older leaves as the plant directs energy to new growth
Solutions
- – Allow the soil to dry out 2-3 inches deep before watering again
- – Repot into a chunky aroid mix with orchid bark and perlite for better drainage
- – If only the oldest 1-2 leaves yellow while new growth looks healthy, this is normal — simply remove them
Brown or black spots on leaves
Causes
- – Root rot from chronic overwatering — the spots often have a yellow halo
- – Bacterial or fungal leaf spot from water sitting on leaves overnight
- – Sunburn from direct afternoon sun hitting the leaves
Solutions
- – Remove affected leaves, unpot the plant, trim any dark mushy roots, and repot in fresh dry mix
- – Water at the soil level rather than overhead, and ensure good air circulation
- – Move away from direct sun — a sheer curtain can diffuse harsh light effectively
New leaves not developing fenestrations (holes)
Causes
- – Insufficient light — fenestration is the plant's adaptation to dappled canopy light and requires bright conditions to develop
- – Young plant — Monstera leaves typically begin fenestrating once the plant is mature (usually 2-3 years old)
- – Lack of support structure preventing the plant from climbing, which triggers larger leaves
Solutions
- – Provide bright indirect light for at least 6-8 hours daily
- – Add a moss pole or trellis — climbing signals the plant to produce larger, more fenestrated leaves
- – Be patient with young plants and ensure consistent fertilizing during the growing season
Weeping or dripping water from leaf tips (guttation)
Causes
- – Overwatering — excess water pressure in the roots forces moisture out through leaf pores
- – Watering late in the evening when the plant cannot transpire
Solutions
- – Reduce watering frequency and ensure soil dries adequately between sessions
- – Water in the morning so the plant can transpire naturally during the day
- – Check that the pot has drainage and the saucer is not holding standing water
Thrips on new leaves
Causes
- – Thrips are attracted to Monstera's large, tender unfurling leaves
- – Brought in from other infested plants or open windows in summer
Solutions
- – Inspect new unfurling leaves regularly — thrips appear as tiny black or tan specks with silvery damage trails
- – Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly, paying special attention to unfurling leaves and leaf sheaths
- – For severe infestations, apply systemic granules to the soil per package directions
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