Monstera

Causes

• – Overwatering — Monstera's thick roots are highly prone to rot in soggy soil
• – Poor drainage from compacted soil or a pot without drainage holes
• – Natural reabsorption of older leaves as the plant directs energy to new growth

Solutions

• – Allow the soil to dry out 2-3 inches deep before watering again
• – Repot into a chunky aroid mix with orchid bark and perlite for better drainage
• – If only the oldest 1-2 leaves yellow while new growth looks healthy, this is normal — simply remove them

Causes

• – Underwatering or low humidity — the most common cause; leaves roll inward to conserve moisture
• – Root rot from soggy soil — curling paired with yellowing and drooping when the soil stays wet
• – A new leaf emerging as a tightly rolled cigar, which is normal and unfurls over several days

Solutions

• – Check the soil first: dry means give a thorough soak and the curl usually relaxes within a day
• – If the soil stays wet and leaves droop, check the roots for rot instead of watering more
• – Raise humidity with a room humidifier if edges are crisping or a new leaf stalls half-unfurled

Causes

• – Root rot from chronic overwatering — the spots often have a yellow halo
• – Bacterial or fungal leaf spot from water sitting on leaves overnight
• – Sunburn from direct afternoon sun hitting the leaves

Solutions

• – Remove affected leaves, unpot the plant, trim any dark mushy roots, and repot in fresh dry mix
• – Water at the soil level rather than overhead, and ensure good air circulation
• – Move away from direct sun — a sheer curtain can diffuse harsh light effectively

Causes

• – Overwatering — Monstera's thick roots rot fast in dense, soggy soil, the single most common way they die
• – A pot without drainage or heavy, water-holding potting soil that stays wet for days
• – Rotted roots can't move water up, so the plant wilts even though the soil is still damp

Solutions

• – Stop watering — a monstera drooping on wet soil needs less water, not more
• – Unpot it and check the roots; cut away brown-black mushy roots back to firm pale tissue and repot in dry chunky aroid mix
• – If the roots are gone, restart the plant from a firm stem node — see the monstera root rot guide for the node rescue

Causes

• – Insufficient light — fenestration is the plant's adaptation to dappled canopy light and requires bright conditions to develop
• – Young plant — Monstera leaves typically begin fenestrating once the plant is mature (usually 2-3 years old)
• – Lack of support structure preventing the plant from climbing, which triggers larger leaves

Solutions

• – Provide bright indirect light for at least 6-8 hours daily
• – Add a moss pole or trellis — climbing signals the plant to produce larger, more fenestrated leaves
• – Be patient with young plants and ensure consistent fertilizing during the growing season

Causes

• – Overwatering — excess water pressure in the roots forces moisture out through leaf pores
• – Watering late in the evening when the plant cannot transpire

Solutions

• – Reduce watering frequency and ensure soil dries adequately between sessions
• – Water in the morning so the plant can transpire naturally during the day
• – Check that the pot has drainage and the saucer is not holding standing water

Causes

• – Thrips are attracted to Monstera's large, tender unfurling leaves
• – Brought in from other infested plants or open windows in summer

Solutions

• – Inspect new unfurling leaves regularly — thrips appear as tiny black or tan specks with silvery damage trails
• – Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap weekly, paying special attention to unfurling leaves and leaf sheaths
• – For severe infestations, apply systemic granules to the soil per package directions